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vortec headed 355 SBC build
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Tony



Joined: 12 Sep 2007
Posts: 16

PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:32 am    Post subject: vortec headed 355 SBC build Reply with quote

I am building a 355 small block chevy for my 1979 camaro street/strip car. I would like a achieve a very streetable motor that still screams on the strip with around 400 HP/TQ. My goal is to get my car to run low 13's, high 12's. Here's a list of parts, wondering if you could let me know if i'm going in the right direction and maybe a possible HP/TQ est.:

SHORTBLOCK:
-4- bolt main 2 pc. rear seal block
-stock cast crank
-stock reconditioned rods w/ ARP bolts
-Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons +.030"(p/n H345NP30)
9.8:1 CR ESTIMATED WITH 64cc head
-ARP main bolts

HEADS:
-GM iron vortec casting #062
-stock valves 1.94/1.5
-Comp Cams 982 valve spring kit
(SPECS: COIL BIND-1.135" 100 LBS @ 1.750"; 281 LBS @ 1.250")
-pinned rocker arm studs
-machined valve guides for lift clearance
-machined push rod guide holes for 1.6 rocker arms
-ARP head bolts

CAMSHAFT:
-Summit K1107 hyd. flat tappet
(SPECS: 234/244 DUR @.050", .488"INT/.510"EXH LIFT W/ 1.5 ROCKER, .520"INT/.544"EXH LIFT W/ 1.6 ROCKER, 114 DEGREE LOBE SEPERATION)

ROCKER ARMS:
-Stamped Steel roller tip 1.6 self aligning

INTAKE:
-Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-gap Vortec

CARB/FUEL:
-Holley 750 cfm vacuum sec
-1" open spacer
-Holley 110gph mech fuel pump

EXHAUST:
-Flowtech headers, full length
(SPECS:1 5/8" primaries, 3" collectors)
-Flowmaster 2.5" 40 series mufflers


-My car has a Borg Warner T10 four speed, 10 bolt posi rearend with 4.10 gears. I plan on adding sub-frame connectors, and traction bars, along with shimming the rearend for pinion angle to get my car to hook after i get this motor built.

Any suggestions on what I have listed for parts?
How does my combo look so far?
Any changes to be made?
Tuning tips?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys

Thanks for looking,

Tony
 
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70nova



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 130

PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This should make your goal. But for about the same amount of money you could get more. Out of this list how much do you have done and or bought? vortec heads work very vell on a combo like yours but they still need work. To use the 1.6 rockers you need to machine the heads, and they will be close an the ex. with 1.5's. if you dont have the shortblock done yet do a 383 or 406. The inches will help move the car, 1979's are not light. my personel opinion is to loose the hyd cam. solid or rollerr cams are better performers and after lashing valvers twice, it becomes a no brainer. Make sure you spend the 6 bucks and put in break-in additive or with the change in oils the cam will likely go flat. Shocked

If you have none of these parts and are going to go buy them, stop. Build a 383 or 406 with 10 to 1 compression and the best 200 to 220cc head you can afford and a small roller cam and really fly. Twisted Evil
 
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Tony



Joined: 12 Sep 2007
Posts: 16

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already have everything on the list but the valvespring kit, camshaft, and intake. The reason i am building this motor is because it spun a rod bearing on me a while back, so the crank is already torn up. It would be easy enough to buy a stroker crank instead of having the one I have reground, and then having the block clearanced when the rest of the machine work is being done. Don't I have to use a small circle base cam if I stroke the motor though? Which cam would you suggest (under .550" lift w/ a 1.6 rocker), I would still want to keep my vortec heads just because of the torque and flow characteristics. My friends have built motors with iron vortecs before and they're very streetable with a good broad power curve, and the torque they make is impressive. I will mostly be driving this car on the street, with the occasional trip to Brainerd to run the strip.
 
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70nova



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 130

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would be great to make a 383 stroker, for the extra power, but along with the crank you need to change the pistons also($$$). The small base circle cam does help with clearance problems and it is not generely difficult to get.
To pick a cam you need to be honest with what you want to do with the car. If you pick a cam to run fast, you may not be happy if 99% of the time you just drive to work. If you Drive the car to the burger stand friday night then the dragstrip/street race on saturday and park it between, then thats a whole nother story.
Unless this is a true budget motor, I would stick with a name brand cam, the ramps are generely more aggressive and will make more power than a generic cam. My opinion. and if you can afford it rollers make the most power.
 
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